So, ok.  We went all the way to Ireland and didn't see the famed Ring of Kerry.  There.  I said it. 

That statement wins amazement from Irish hosts.  And disbelief from one's own parents.  But it's true.  We opted instead for another beautiful coastal circuit - the Beara Peninsula, with some side-trips.  Kerry, Beara, Dingle, and Sheepshead hold the surname "Ring" because of the circular routes you trace along the coasts of each peninsula.  They are all spectacular in their own ways.  But if you are travelling on toddler-time, you need to choose.  Too much time in the car is the way of all badness, and each of these rings takes at least a day to drive… much, much more if you really want to investigate the coastline and small towns that line the roads and cliffs.

And you're still doing a lot of driving, no matter what.  On roads lined with mile-high, feral hedges, and lots of blind curves. Who needs coffee to wake you up when you have that?  It's not as bad as some places make out, of course, but we were still glad to return our rental with both its side mirrors.
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